Sprinkler Head & Leak Repair in Coconut Creek, FL

What sprinkler repair covers

Most sprinkler trouble starts small. A head gets clipped by a mower, a nozzle clogs with sand, a fitting under the turf starts to weep. You don't notice until a strip of lawn turns straw-colored or the water bill jumps. By then the system has usually been running that way for weeks.

We repair the parts that wear out in a South Florida yard: spray and rotor heads, risers, nozzles, swing joints, lateral lines and the fittings between them. We run every zone with you, mark what's wrong, and tell you what the fix involves and what it costs before we touch a shovel.

Signs you need sprinkler repair

• Water bubbling at the base of a head. Usually a cracked riser, a worn wiper seal or a broken swing joint just below the surface.
• A soggy spot that never dries. Often a slow leak in a lateral line or fitting, even when the system is off.
• Heads that don't pop up all the way. Low pressure from a leak elsewhere on the zone, or sand packed around the stem.
• Spray hitting the house, driveway or street. A nozzle turned out of line, or a head knocked crooked by a mower or foot traffic.
• Brown patches between heads. Gaps in head-to-head coverage, mismatched nozzles or a head buried by growing turf.
• A higher water bill with no other change. Something is running when it shouldn't, or leaking while it runs.

Why sprinklers break in Coconut Creek yards

The soil under most north Broward lawns is sandy. It drains fast, so a head that's slightly off leaves a dry patch within days, especially in the dry season. Sand also gets pulled into heads as they retract, which wears seals and makes stems stick. Over time, heads settle and tilt as the ground shifts around them.

St. Augustine grass sends thick runners over spray heads and smothers them. Palm and ficus roots go looking for water and wrap around lines, sometimes cracking them. And when the water table is high in the wet months, a leak may not show up as a puddle right away. That's why we test zones instead of guessing from the surface.

Repair the head or replace the zone?

A single broken head is almost always a repair. We swap it for a matching model and nozzle and the zone is back in balance. Replacing heads across a whole zone makes sense when the existing ones are mixed brands with different spray rates, or when several are cracked from age and sun.

Lines work the same way. A split lateral gets cut out and coupled. If a line keeps breaking in the same area, roots or shifting soil are usually behind it, and rerouting that short section can save you repeat visits. We'll give you both options and the price of each.

Before you call

A few minutes at the controller tells us a lot. Run each zone by hand and note which ones misbehave: no water, weak spray, a geyser, or water that keeps flowing after the zone stops. The morning after a scheduled run, walk the yard and look for soggy ground, standing water near a head, or a strip of lawn that's drier than the rest.

If you find a geyser, turn the zone off instead of letting it run. Take a photo of the broken head and the area around it and text it to us. It helps us bring the right parts, and it often means the repair gets done on the first visit.